Dyno Service


Calgary Autoworks present new Dynocom DC-1800X-SE-AWD dyno capable of 3600+ WHP and 225+ mph!
Calgary Autoworks also has a full service facility which can handle just about anything that you need taken care of prior to dyno testing/tuning (by appointment only). PLEASE make sure your car is leak free and is in pristine running condition before coming for a dyno appointment. Any clean up that is required after your dyno runs will be subject to a clean up fee. 


Suitable for the following Transmission Types:

Front wheel drive 
Rear wheel drive 
All wheel drive (All Audi excluding A3 & TT)

Download Dyno Services Forms 

Call or email to book your appointment.

Race Fuel: 

Calgary Autoworks is a Distributor for Race-Gas. We have cans on hand (seasonal) that can be purchased at the shop before your car is tuned or anytime during our normal business hours. We do recommend bringing your own fuel for tuning just in case we are out at the time of your dyno appointment.

Information can be found at: http://race-gas.com/

Prices of Dynamometer Testing for a Single Car:
  • Two Wheel Drive $150.00 plus GST
  • All Wheel Drive $220.00 plus GST
Prices of Dynamometer Testing for an Automotive Group/Club (minimum 5 vehicles):
  • 2WD or AWD $120.00 per vehicle plus GST
Price of Dyno Tuning by Calgary Autoworks:
  • 2WD or AWD $750.00 plus GST for three hours $150.00 plus GST per additional hour
Dyno Rental:
  • We do not do Dyno Rental Services

All dyno services include Air/Fuel and power readings available for print out or email.

It is your responsibility to make sure that the vehicle is roadworthy & able to perform on our Dyno, if we deem the vehicle unsafe to perform on the dyno the customer will be charged at the shop hourly rate for time spent on the vehicle. Calgary Autoworks reserves the right to refuse vehicles that are unsafe or not equipped with standard safety functions (ie. brakes, wheels, steering) as well as mechanical failures required for basic operation.

Dyno use by appointment only. If you have any questions or if you would like to setup an appointment please feel free to give us a call @ 403-243-9661.

Dyno Pre-Tune Checklist

Our goal is to provide you with a tune that will extract the most WHP from your vehicle, while maintaining reliability and drivability. In order to do that, your car must be in good operating condition and be ready for the dyno. To help achieve this goal and keep your costs to a minimum, we put together this Vehicle Preparedness Checklist for the benefit of our customers who are coming in for tuning and/or dyno pulls. The list has been compiled to explain some of the routine issues we have encountered, as well as how to avoid them. It’s important to note that it is the customer's responsibility to make certain their vehicle is healthy and ready to tune.

Chassis Tie Down Points:
Make sure you vehicle is either equipped with the OEM Tow Hooks or a safe alternative. We need to be able to strap the vehicle down in a timely manner. There can be additional difficulties on turbocharged and/or vehicles with body kits because of the charge pipes, down-pipes, dump tubes and/or lower hanging body work.

Electrical/Sensor Wiring Issues:
The engine harness should be free from breaks and have no exposed wires. Breaks or exposed wires should not be twisted and taped together. Loose connections and stray wires in the engine bay can be hard to track down, costing time and money, so make sure your wiring is correct and secure.

AIT (Air Intake Temperature) Sensor:
A properly installed Air Intake Temp sensor should be installed in the intake manifold. We realize that some vehicles come with AIT sensors in the intake pipe from the factory, but whenever possible, it is best to have it installed in the manifold. We can’t tune for heat-soak if the sensor is located elsewhere. Newer style AIT sensors that are located in the intake pipe should be installed post turbo for accurate readings. We offer billet AIT Bungs that can be welded to your intake manifold or charge pipe so you don’t have to convert to the older style AIT sensor. Don’t install the sensor in a charge pipe using an o-ring or grommet- it will not hold under boost and will need to be fixed.

CEL (Check Engine Light):
If you're Check Engine Light is on it’s on for a reason and the chances are you have a problem. Find out why your CEL is coming on and either have the issue fixed, or let us know ahead of time. Exceptions to this are O2 sensor code, O2 heater code, and knock sensor code. These sensors can be disabled during your tuning session, but we prefer to use the O2 sensor and have it functioning.

Charging System:
A properly operating system should be charging at 13.5-14 Volts under all operating conditions. Exceptions are race cars running a 16V System, a vehicle that is equipped with an aftermarket crank pulley that under drives the alternator, or a vehicle equipped w/ a high output alternator.

Make sure your vehicle has good, clean grounds. Older vehicles that have surface rust in and or around the ground strap connection area may benefit from additional grounds.
The three (3) major grounds to be aware of are as follows. -Battery to Chassis -Transmission to Chassis -Valve Cover Nut to Chassis

Fuel Issues:

Fuel Level:
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE AT LEAST A HALF TANK OF GAS – or better yet, fill your tank - if we have to put fuel in your car you will be charged for the fuel and time to do it.

Fuel Injector Plugs:
All fuel injector plugs should be complete and crack free. Plugs missing their metal retaining clips will present an issue and will be repaired or replaced.

Fuel Pressure Gauge:
Many times we have a vehicle strapped down on the dyno and in the process of tuning we find that the injector is either improperly sized or that the fuel pump simply cannot keep up. It is good practice to have a fuel pressure gauge installed to help troubleshoot if it comes to it.

Fuel Pump:
Know what fuel pump is in the vehicle and how old it is. If you have any doubt, check it or replace it. Lack of fuel will show up at the least opportune time. Although it is an easy fix on the dyno, it will cause delays and add extra cost.

Fuel Pressure Regulator:
Not necessary for every application but it can’t hurt. Fuel pressure regulators are great for turning down pressure in applications where it’s not needed. They are also great for increasing the injectors duty cycle if/when you are at its limit. Base fuel pressure with engine on and vacuum line removed from the fuel pressure regulator should be between 40-50psi.

Fuel Injectors:
Be sure that there are no vacuum and/ or fuel leaks at or around the injectors. Also, make sure your fuel injectors are sized appropriately for the power that you are trying to make. Below is a quick reference to what a given injector will support on a 4 cylinder motor at sea level:
240cc/min: 0-180whp
310cc/min: 0-240whp
370cc/min: 0-275whp
440cc/min: 0-325whp
550cc/min: 0-375whp
650cc/min: 0-425whp
750cc/min: 0-475whp
1000cc/min: 0-600whp
1200cc/min: 0-700whp
1600cc/min: 0-850whp
Injectors can support more power by upping the static fuel pressure. With high base fuel pressures of 60-70psi, a 20-30% increase in flow can be achieved.

Vacuum/ Boost Issues:
Vacuum Lines - Make sure that your intake, vacuum lines, and intercooler piping are sealed when under vacuum as well as sealed when under pressure. A vacuum leak under vacuum can cause an erratic idle and the engine to run lean. A vacuum leak under boost will make the engine run rich. Major leaks can usually be found while dyno tuning because the data will look incorrect, but minor leaks are very difficult to find. No matter the size or nature of the leak, the leak will prohibit us from tuning and must be found and repaired.
Secure all vacuum lines or charge piping so they do not blow off during tuning Tighten all throttle body, intake manifold, exhaust/ turbo manifold, turbo, down pipe, and/ or exhaust hardware.

Exhaust Issues:
Exhaust Length – Tuning a car with an open header or open down pipe is sometimes a challenge - depending on the size and length. We have seen compromises in part throttle tunes due to O2 sensor readings and prefer that the car come in with a full exhaust. We can tune either way, but if the car is to be run open header or open down pipe, here are the recommendations for a great tune: O2 sensor bung should be mounted at least 10-14 inches from the turbo and at least 24-30 inches from the exit on turbo cars; and in the collector and at least 24 inches from the outlet on N/A and supercharged cars.

O2 Sensor:
If the vehicle is not equipped with a wideband we will need to remove the narrow band sensor so that we can install ours. Please make sure that the O2 sensor comes out easily, avoiding costly damage due to the sensor being installed without anti-seize. If the sensor must be replaced, you will be charged for the cost of the sensor as well as the additional labor needed to chase the threads. If the bung is ruined beyond repair, we sometimes need to remove that section of pipe to weld a new section of pipe, with a new bung in place.

Mechanical Issues:

We do not perform compression or leak down tests on all vehicles that come in for tuning. We assume that you are providing us a healthy motor. If the vehicle is down on power and the Tuner has to stop to check compression and/ or cylinder leak down, you will be charged. Depending on the results of said tests… we may be forced to stop the tune and you may be responsible for a portion of the tune/ time spent.
8:5-9:1 compression: 170-180psi per cylinder
9.1-10:1 compression: 180-210psi per cylinder
10:1-11:1 compression: 210-235psi per cylinder
11:1+ compression: 235+ per cylinder

Call before scheduling an appointment if your compression test shows large variances between cylinders. Your motor should not have more than a 20psi variance in compression or 20% variance in leak down between cylinders. Camshaft can affect compression ratio so the numbers listed above should be used loosely.

Valve Lash:
Make sure the engine has proper valve lash for the camshafts being used. OEM cams should be set to .007” on the intake and .009” on the exhaust. Performance camshafts typically require different settings and it is best to either contact the manufacturer or refer to your cam manufacturer. Valve adjustment should be performed when the motor is completely cool.

Timing Belt:
The timing belt should be installed properly with minimal to no slack as well as properly timed. A loose timing belt runs the risk of jumping/ skipping teeth which leads to timing issues and unnecessarily wasted time in adjusting. In extreme situations a loose belt may lead to total engine failure.

Throttle Controls:
The gas pedal, throttle cable, and throttle body should move freely and return completely. The throttle body should not bind or stick and the throttle stop should be set. The cable should be adjusted so that there is adequate slack without being sloppy and the bracket should be mounted firmly with all appropriate hardware.

Clutch Issues:
Make sure the clutch you are using is rated for the torque capacity that your vehicle WILL BE MAKING not the power it is currently making. Don’t use a stock clutch or equivalent if you are running a supercharger, turbocharger or nitrous equipped engine.